19th century mourning jet choker
However, once they are settled in Devonshire, they visit Mrs
Dashwood’s cousin, Sir John Middleton, at Barton Park and enjoy a lively social
life. Marianne meets the handsome and eligible Willoughby, and falls in love.
The fact of them being now in half-mourning isn’t mentioned. And the following
January, Elinor and Marianne accompany Mrs Jennings to London to enjoy what
society has to offer without worrying about the propriety of it whilst they are
in mourning. Possibly, the custom of lengthy mourning for relations was not yet
so strictly observed in Society as it was to be later on; Sense and Sensibility was an early novel, first written in 1797-8.
The mourning is much more overt in Persuasion. When Anne Elliot first sees her cousin Mr William
Elliot in Lyme, both he and his manservant are in mourning for Mr Eliot’s wife
who died six months earlier. Jane Austen uses Mr Elliot’s mourning to help Anne
learn about his true character from her friend Mrs Smith who once knew him
well. Even if he didn’t care for his wife, surely he should be affected by her
sudden death only six months before. He certainly ought not to be making up to
the mercenary Mrs Clay who, Anne suspects, has plans to become the second Lady
Elliot. Is Mr Elliot exercising his wiles to forestall that happening?
So what were the correct periods of mourning during the 19th
century? Views became more extreme as the century wore on. At its height, a
widow was expected to be in deep mourning for a year, wearing clothes made in matt
black paramatta (a sort of silk/wool bombazine) and crepe. Twenty-one months
later, she might leave off the crepe and three months after that she went into
half-mourning for six months: grey, lavender, mauve, violet or grey and white
stripes. As The Queen magazine put
it: she was the victim of ‘a mild form of
suttee’.
Cameo in jet frame
For grandparents, the mourning was six months, as it was for
brothers and sisters. Uncles and aunts warranted two months’ mourning,
great-uncles or aunts, six weeks, and first cousins a month. One had to lighten
the mourning by degrees.
An amusing satirical sketch from Hoods Magazine is illuminating:
Lady:
‘I suppose you have a great variety of half mourning?’
Shopman: ‘Oh! Infinite – the largest stock in town. Full, and half, and
quarter, and half-quarter, shaded off, if I may say so, like and India-ink
drawing, from a grief prononcé
to the slightest nuance of regret.’
Jet bracelet
The hero, Lord Rotherham, is coming to dinner, but, at this
stage, they are not on good terms. Serena looks magnificent but ‘the comment she evoked from the Marquis was
scarcely flattering, “Good God, Serena!” he said, as he briefly shook her hand.
“Setting up as a magpie?”
Georgette Heyer knew very well what she was about in Bath Tangle when she made her heroine,
the 25-year-old Serena, a beautiful and queenly red-head, and her very young
stepmother, Fanny, as a diaphanous and appealing blonde. She wrote to her agent:
‘They have to be like that so that each
can look terrific in mourning.’
In other words, mourning can be a very useful plot device.
For example, in The Toll Gate, the
heroine Nell’s dying grandfather has high-handedly acquired a marriage licence,
determined that Nell marries the hero Captain John Staple then and there; he
wants to see the knot tied, before he dies. Nell thinks it’s outrageous.
John has to persuade her. He says, ‘Now, consider, my love! If we are to wait until your grandfather is
dead, how awkward in every respect must be our situation! You will then scruple
to marry me until you are out of your blacks, and what the deuce are we to do
for a whole year? Where will you go? How will you support yourself? With so
many scruples you would never permit me to do that!’
Nell gives in.
Gold, black enamel and seed pearl mourning ring. The reverse shows plaited hair from the deceased
Then there is Eugenia Wraxham, the tiresomely priggish fiancée of Charles Rivenhall in The Grand Sophy. Heyer needs Eugenia to be betrothed to Charles but not yet married. Mourning for an aunt is the answer and Eugenia ‘will not be out of black gloves for six months.’ (Interestingly, this is a longer period than is strictly necessary.)
When Charles, to his fury, discovers that Sophy has arranged a ball to launch herself into Society, and Eugenia has not been invited, his outspoken teenage sister says: ‘Can you have forgotten the bereavement in Miss Wraxham’s family? I’m sure that if she has told us once she has told us a dozen times that propriety forbids her to attend any but the most quiet parties.’
If Eugenia were not in mourning, then she and Charles would
have married months ago. But Heyer has other plans for Charles…
So, if you need to up the ante for your hero or heroine, you
might want to consider how useful an inconvenient period of mourning could
be.
Elizabeth Hawksley
3 comments:
Such fabulous jewellery. I have a cameo similar to that, but I'm not sure the surround is black, Must check. Had not thought it might be a mourning one. I've just re-read all the Austens and of course your assessment is so right. Interesting how the different degrees of relationship required different mourning.
The Reluctant Widow is in mourning, of course, and she wears black silk and dove grey. Though she never knew her husband. I seem to remember a certain amount of discussion as to the propriety of her marrying the hero within too short a time.
I've just checked 'The Reluctant Widow'. At the end of the book, Carlyon tells Elinor that he hopes that she will become his wife and adds, 'When the period of your strict mourning is over it is my very ardent desire to be permitted to pay my addresses to you.' They don't discuss when the actual marriage will take place. I can't see that they could marry until the year was up, not if Elinor's reputation was to be maintained.
Ivo Rotherham and Serena in 'Bath Tangle' who become engaged well before the year of mourning is up, decide to put a notice in the Gazette to the effect that their marriage has taken place, privately, in Bath. Ivo adds, 'even your Aunt Theresa will not think it improper if I add to the notice that we are spending our honeymoon abroad and do not expect to be in England again until November.'
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