Showing posts with label costume. Show all posts
Showing posts with label costume. Show all posts

Wednesday, July 08, 2015

PUTTING ON MY TOP HAT… How a Regency fashion lingers on. A Historical Wednesday Post


"…his tall, curly-brimmed beaver hat and many-caped driving coat suggested a man of substance…" *



How many times have you read a similar line in a Regency novel?  We tend to think of it as a Regency innovation, but in fact the earlier 18th Century style of cocked hat (or tricorn, as it was called later) was often made of beaver fur, too, although different furs and even woolen felt could be used as a cheaper option.  It was the style that changed, rather than the fabric, and the Regency "beaver" was the forerunner of today's top hat, which is now more often made of silk.

Beaver felt was a popular material for hats in Europe from the 16th century through to the mid-19th century, but it was when the beautiful pelts from North America began to arrive in Europe that the fashion really caught on.












Beaver felt hats could be in black, fawn, grey or white and were generally tall, with widely varying   the most popular being the wider at the top. Silk hats (or polished beaver) came from Italy in the mid 18th century but did not become popular for our Regency hero until the 1820's and even then they were not general worn until the 1830s.
types of crown,


Being a hatter was a dangerous profession, because they used mercury in the felting process  and this affected the nervous system and caused mood swings, aggressive behaviour, the shakes and hallucinations. This may well be the origin of the term "mad as a hatter." It certainly sounds plausible to me.
The picture showed the various  types of  beaver hat worn around the time of the Regency, and the curly-brimmed one definitely shows  that the top hat was on its way, and in 1823 a Frenchman called Gibus is credited with inventing the collapsible top hat.
 
Melinda Hammond / Sarah Mallory

*quote from "A Lady at Midnight", Melinda Hammond  US  UK

 Sarah Mallory - 
The Chaperon's Seduction pub July 2015 by Harlequin  US  UK

Thursday, May 15, 2014

Georgian costumes at Berrington Hall

Berrington Hall, Herefordshire (c) Joanna Maitland

Berrington Hall in Herefordshire is a gem of a house designed by Henry Holland with gardens by Capability Brown. It is really worth a visit, perhaps for those on the way to the RNA Conference in Telford in the second week of July.

Berrington Hall, grounds with lake (c) Joanna Maitland

This year, Berrington Hall is really pushing the boat out for visitors who are interested in the Georgian Period.

Berrington has a fantastic costume collection of its own but this summer, there are additions. From now until the end of June, there's an exhibition of costumes from the film The Duchess.



Embroidered waistcoat (c) Joanna Maitland
Also from now till the end of June, you can see how Georgian gentlemen dressed and behaved. There's an exhibition of gentlemen's waistcoats and accessories and I can guarantee that embroidery lovers will be amazed at the stunning workmanship (workwomanship?) on the waistcoats. They are absolutely beautiful and my photo does not begin to do justice to this one.





If you're lucky enough to be able to visit on 14th or 15th June, you can also see how gentlemen settled their differences. In other words - duelling - whether with swords or pistols.


On various dates in the second half of June there are also carriage displays including driving.


Then, in July and August - more convenient for those going to the RNA conference - there is an exhibition called "Big Bottoms and Small Waists". Not my title, I assure you!

It is, as you'll have guessed, an exhibition of undergarments. Fascinating and maybe even a little risqué.

Berrington hall, rear courtyard (c) Joanna Maitland

Details of Berrington Hall are here and details of the events and timings are here. I do hope you will find time to go. It is a magical house.  Complete with resplendent guardian in the rear courtyard.


Courtyard guardian in full fig!  (c) Joanna Maitland

Joanna
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